Moeder Lambic Fontainas (Brussels, Belgium)

Real men eat quiche

7/30/12, 7/31/12

I found Moeder Lambic during my planned walk listed on Cantillon's website.  If heading to the Cantillon tour, a stop at Moeder Lambic is a great before or after combination.  I thought I had my return down pat when I noted in the morning that the bar is near the Anneessens metro stop.  However, when exiting at Anneessens, it's important to follow the signs to Fontainasplein. Underground walkways lead to several separate "pleins" (open places) and they are two blocks from each other.   I was hoping for a easy up and getting a beer, and got a walk through an interesting immigrant neighborhood instead.

Zwarte Piet by Brasserie de la Senne here in Brussels is the first beer of the night. Zwarte Piet means "black Pete" and is a helper of Santa Claus in the Netherlands, but I understand little about Pete beyond that.  In this case, I got a robust, dark beer that is a nice contrast to the lambics and golden Belgians I've been drinking this week.  Flowing brown lace on the glass leads to a deep ruby ale that's opaque, and smooth without being light.  Dark cherry and chocolate mix with a spice in the nose and taste that seems to be from theyeast but could also be hops—probably a blend.

Zwarte Piete and my view at a table just inside the door

Second beer of the night is Bitter Sorachi Ace from a French brewery, Brasserie du Mont Saleve.  From my trip, I've noticed that bitter styles are starting to make inroads into Belgium, but my impression is that they still shy away from hops compared to Americans.  This is a hazy, pale yellow ale with a giant head in a small footed glass. Very pretty but the taste disappoints.  I love Sorachi Ace as a hop when placed front and center in a beer by Brooklyn Brewery, simply called Sorachi Ace. This use is less than masterful, and while I understand the critique of over-hopped American beers, American brewers have really pushed the limits of hop science and know how to use them.  This is a nice attempt by Mont Saleve, but it falls a little short.

For dinner, I expanded my horizons and ordered the salmon quiche, which was excellent. Those shocked reading this fact, I added fish back into my ovo-lacto diet recently and this is the first I've tested it overseas. The Bitter Sorachi Ace complimented the quiche fairly well.

Moved on to Noir de Dottignies by Brouwerij de Ranke.  A Belgian strong dark ale with a clean tan lace and dark brown to ruby in the glass.  A very light nose of dark fruits and alcohol spice on top of a smooth maltiness.  Body is a bit light with a slickness letting the same fruits and spice slide right off the back. The beer came with a small amount of malt, but not sure why and the waiter left so quickly that I couldn't ask. Nothing on BA either.  This is listed as a "dark and bitter" beer, so my guess is that the sweet malt is supposed to compliment or reduce the Challenger and Saaz hops dosing.  Can't say the combination does much for me besides leaving chunky grain in my mouth instead of slightly hoppy dark beer. Confirmed the next night that the malted barley is meant to be a "chip" to snack on—a sweet to counteract the bitterness.

After a month in Belgium and France, I came home and gain only two pounds, drinking and eating as I wished.  I love the smaller portions of food and beer in Belgium, maybe Europe in general.  Delve into the full list of 2012 Belgium and 2012 France posts; the reader will note that I've had a fairly large number of beers—all glasses of 25 centiliters.  Food is served in manageable portions as well, so a meal ordered for one doesn't make me feel like a glutton.  A very safe and sane way to to eat and drink.  Moeder Lambic is the epitome of this idea.  This, I think, the US could learn a lesson on how to do.

Finished the night with Rose de Gambrinus, the framboise from Cantillon that I visited this morning.  I didn't have it on-site since I planned to get here later to try several lambics.  Amazing pink head that lingers fluffily on top of a dark red lambic.  My info from Cantillon says 150 kg of raspberries are macerated and placed in the kegs per 500 liters of beer and left to soak for five to six months.  Incredible raspberry in the nose with a light twang from the lambic pushes its way in from the background.  Take a sip and—wow—what sour: vinegar-like kick with the fruit just barely keeping up, almost achieving a balance.  This is a framboise for lambic lovers instead of an introductory lambic like Lindeman's with the fruit leading the sour by a ways.

In spite of the weird, techno backbeat from the bar's music, Moeder Lambic is a great beer adventure.  Besides, the music isn't loud and the focus of the place is light conversation.  I'm pretty sure that one of the workers I saw today at Cantillon is sitting at the bar, so others seem to think that it's a good stop as well. Also, the bar has an especially strong WiFi signal, so I'm catching up on emails while digging deep into the beer list.

Finding Moeder Lambic on my second attempt went much better.  After my adventure at the Atomium (giant model of an atom for the 1958 World Expo that attracts loads of tourists), I emerged from the subway looking right at the bar.

Started tonight with Dupont's Monk's Stout. Black and opaque, even in the mini-imperial pint glass.  Roasted malt and chocolate in the nose that smells like a standard good stout except for a light Belgian yeast funk underneath. More spice appears in the taste to compliment the Guinness-like quality of this beer.

Kerkomese Tripel from Brouwerij Kerkom is a hazy yellow with a stark white head in a glass.  A triple with an amazing spice and fruitiness on top of a light body. The 9% is completely hidden in this smooth drinking beer.  Next, when in Belgium, drink Norway.  Nogne O Imperial Stout is on tap as a special beer, so it's hard to resist this absolute black ale with a creamy tan head. Nose is light for the style, but the taste is fairly spectacular: full bodied, roast, chocolate, slight cherry and an alcohol slickness that makes it smooth. Opens up well as it warms.

My last beer at Moeder Lambic was Tilquin Gueuze on tap.  This was one of my favorites at the Lambic Vistor Center and is just as good on tap. Stark white, fluffy head over a hazy straw gold beer. This is one of my favorites of the trip: a pleasantly sour beer that's not overwhelming. A very perfectly balanced lambic blend.

So I lied. When I said the Tilquin Gueuze was very good, the bartender said the Lambic Blend on tap was better.  Had to give it a try.   Bracingly tart without being overwhelming and a light malt sweetness underneath, probably from a younger lambic in the blend that hasn't dried out yet.  Looks identical to the gueuze, understandably, since both are a blend of the same base lambic.  Tilquin is fast becoming my favorite lambic brewer/blender along with Oud Beersel.

Time spent is my recommendation—check out Moeder Lambic.

Brasserie Cantillon (Brussels, Belgium)

7/30/12

To do the tour of Cantillon, I followed the walking directions to the brewery, starting at the Grand Place (Grote Markt).  Nice walk that took me longer than expected to do, but fun to have landmarks pointed and explained on sheets included with the map.  Otherwise, there are metro stops close by the brewery for a faster, less touristy trip to Cantillon.

I walked right by the building until I saw the Cantillon wrapped vehicle that got me to turn around.  After being welcomed, and paying, a brief history of Lambic is explained and the self paced walking tour starts at the end of the hallway.  A booklet explains everything by the numbers.  Not as personable format, but it does allow visitors to show up and learn on a tourists timetable. It seems that they move a lot more people through here as a result, so I'm fine with the solo tour.

I think the best thing about the tour is that the equipment is largely original, according to the booklet, and it feels like a working museum.  Some of the workers seem to have tired of being a tour prop, but that's understandable. The vertical brewing process started with the mash tun on the bottom floor and ended at the coolship on the top floor is worth the price of admission.

Mash tun

Tasting room. With the 6 euro fee for the tour comes two samples. My first sample is 18 month old straight Lambic.   At the beginning of the tour, I was warned that Lambic beer is sour. I suspect tourists must come here and not know what they are getting themselves in for.  In this case, it's less sour than I imagined it would be. Light orange beer with golden highlights in a small tulip glass to focus the nose. Earthy sourness in the nose is light but strengthens in the taste. Not completely dry yet, there is a small amount of sugar left to sweeten the taste.

For the second sample, I chose the gueuze.  Kriek and the framboise Rose de Gambrinus were also options. The gueuze was similar in color to the lambic but a distinctly darker shade. The blending of one, two and three year lambic is apparent in the depth and complexity of the beer. Still sour, but the blended layers make it more drinkable and refreshing.

I ended by paying for a glass of the Faro, which is lambic sweetened with caramel and candied sugar. The sour fights to rise above the caramel sweetness, but loses. The dark caramel color of the beer forecasts its very sweet character. The finish of the beer is both dry and sweet because of the addition of sugar.  Authentic faro is hard to acquire because bottling it is dangerous with the high addition of sugar—excessive carbonation will explode faro bottles if left too long.  Also, person pouring the samples also said the high carbonation will ruin the flavor over time as well.

Glass of Faro in tasting room

Overall, Cantillon is a slightly touristy but interesting tour of a working lambic brewery, cobwebs and all.  I took about 90 minutes for the tour, samples and writing, but most people went through much faster and left quickly after their two samples.  The only brewery tour within the heart of Brussels, Cantillon is well worth the effort.

Coolship for getting those Belgian bugs

A la Mort Subite (Brussels, Belgium)

7/31/12, 8/1/12

Found myself near enough Mort Subite to stop in for lunch after a morning of Flemish art at the Royal Museum of Fine Arts. Amazing how looking at Breughel and Rubens can work up a thirst.

I must look American in enough that I was warned that the Mort Subite Gueuze was served warm and that it was sour. The color of an overripe peach, there's a slight film of an off white head on the beer. Yeasty nose that's focused in spite of spontaneous fermentation. Slightly sour and fruity on the tongue. Very good and goes well gouda cheese.

I came here for lunch, in part, because another BA mentioned cheese sandwiches; I ordered the Hollande sandwich: gouda cheese on a traditional bread, just like at A la Becasse. Mustard placed on the table ahead of the sandwich arriving—to my surprise, mustard on bread with gouda cheese is pretty darn good.  I may return for more lambic and to order the omelet because it looks very good at the next table.

The bar itself is a wonderful old place that makes the stop worthwhile in and of itself, especially compared to just buying a sandwich at a street shop or frites on the street.   In addition to the range of Mort Subite beers, there's a nice selection of abbey and Trappists ales in bottles and draft.

For dessert, I had a Mort Subite Kriek.  Barlely pink head is falling quickly on a Cool-Aid red beer. Light sour cherry and yeasty nose belies the stronger fruit flavor in the mouth that's barely counterpointed by the more mellow sour of Mort Subite's base lambic. Tastes a bit like cherry sour candy in liquid form. Body is light but the flavor more than compensates. This would be a great introduction to lambic and fruit beers. It reminds me a little of New Glarus Belgian Red, but not quite as good.


Decided to end the trip with a draft or two at Mort Subite because it's easy to find in the touristy district and I think I've spent enough time at Delirium for one trip. The quieter, period bar without the thumping techno seemed like the right way to go. I had a sample of the Mort Subite Framboise at the 2005 Festival of Beer in Toronto. It rated high then and doesn't disappoint now. Strong fruit flavor without being overly sweet as the sour lambic swells up underneath to meet the challenge.  An excellent framboise for beer geek and neophyte alike.

Omelette on second visit

I tried to finish with Orval, but they were out until the next day.  On the recommendation of a new tap by the waitress, I'm ending my stay in Belgium as I started: La Trappe Quadruple.  I could live here just for La Trappe this fresh. When I get home, the top of my brewing priority is to learn how to brew a clone of this beer.

Chez Leon, Rue des Bouchers 18 (Brussels, BE)

8/1/12

After a week of working up the courage to eat shellfish, plus a recommendation by the receptionist at the Breughel hostel, I finally had moules and frites (mussels and french fries).  Mussels are out of season, so a local wouldn't be eating them. But I'm a tourist and won't be here in-season.

Anne, the guide from the Boon tour, recommended, among other dishes I don't generally eat, that I drink gueuze with mussels.  I can report the combination is quite good, in this case a Mort Subite Gueuze. The gueuze cuts sharply through the flavor of the mussels, balancing the strong meaty flavor of the seafood.  This fact was appreciated by this recent vegetarian on his first sampling of shellfish since trying oysters in Mr. Zwagerman's class in high school.  Overall, I enjoyed the experience and glad I drank the gueuze with dinner rather than the Maes Pils that came with the meal, as the mussels lost their lives to being boiled in the stuff.

The Brit father of the family at the next table said the mussels were very good, but the frites we below par, so I'm inclined to think the mussels have room for improvement as well.  The same waiter I had showed the Brit father how to use a used mussel shell to hold on to a new mussel to eat, which I assumed was a better, local way than the spoon I was trying to use. Overall, I'm satisfied with the experience because Chez Leon at least feels authentic compared to the touristy places that tried to pull me in as I walked here. The napkins say since 1893, so I suppose that's something.  Maybe I'll find out at some point in the future how good of an experience this was today.

A La Becasse (Brussels, Belgium)

I had pre-trip researched a little on A La Becasse but it was a low priority; however, I decided to make a stop based on the recommendation of Werner from Oud Beersel and the Lambic Discovery Center.  I'm glad that I had talked to him, otherwise I might not have approached the place.  The nondescript front is just a door with a sign that leads to a long, ancient hallway until it emerges into a dark wood interior lined with tightly spaced rows of tables. Very quaint place that feels local in spite of being very close to the Grand Place, though some were clearly tourists because I can hear their excessively loud Texas accent-laden conversation across the room.

I started with the sweet lambic, Lambic Doux.   It's Timmerman's lambic sweetened and served in a traditional lambic jar and glass. A light amber ale that shines in the glass, it has a subtle sourness and an earthy tone.  Sweetness balances the sour, almost, and makes for a very pleasant thirst quencher, as it says on the menu.

Moved on to the Lambic Blanc, or white lambic. Initially a foamy white head built up and fell on top of a slightly hazy, light yellow beer.  It's listed as a white wheat beer on the menu, and explained as a unique, traditional Lambic that was imbibed on the farms of Pajottenland.  It also has a subtle wheaty nose with a faint sourness and sugar. Sweetened as well, the lemon, wheat tang and spiciness push over the sweetness that lingers in the back.  Very refreshing and complex; I can see how this was the "lawnmower" beer of Flanders. When talking to Werner yesterday, I had trouble understanding how this was Belgian equivalent of Saison, a beer to drink on the farm but this white lambic makes it abundantly clear.

The waiter was very friendly and helped me to order a vegetarian dish, a traditional cheese sandwich.  It was a very thin bread that was spread with a heavy layer of soft white cheese.  Radishes and onions on the side added contrasting flavors to the creamy cheese funk.  For me, the cheese became a bit much by the end, but an interesting meal of traditional cuisine that is hoped for element of any good vacation.  And, I have room left for a waffle for dessert on the Grand Place (eat plain to look like a local--add too much chocolate and whip cream for the "tourist" waffle).

In the end, the only negative of my stop was the really loud American.  Otherwise, once I settled in, it felt like a real place compared to the craziness of the Delirium Cafe, a respite from the touristy nature of many bars in this area; it lived up to Werner's billing in every way.  For any beer geek that's serious about tasting lambic in its traditional manner, A la Becasse is a must stop when in Brussels.

Le Bier Circus (Brussels, Belgium)

7/26/12

While trying to plan my first brewery tour to Bosteels on Friday, I accidentally ran across Le Bier Circus near the youth hostel Jacques Brel that I'm staying at a night this week.  Decided to give it a try: I saw vegetarian lasagna on the menu, plus I had heard of the bar before. Maybe it's because it's a Thursday night, but I'm the only one in the restaurant plus a few sitting outside.

Lasagna looked better than it tasted, but I'm hot and running on two hours of sleep from the flight.  Might not be a fair test. I don't see myself ordering it again, but it definitely hits the spot now.





With dinner I had a Keyte Dobbel-Triple, which is very good. What I can tell from the menu, the beer is from amateurs in Ostende. Unclear in translation, but the server clears it up that the beer is brewed by Brouwerij Strubbe but somehow created by the "club van bierliefhebbers" or homebrewers.  An amazing collaboration: dark chestnut brown with a dirty brown head that falls in a perfect lace. Chestnut in the nose that reminds me of a Christmas beer I had in Italy once. Light spice in nose to balance that subdued by the full Dubbel-like malt, slight dark fruits and full nuttiness. Fun beer.

Near the end of the meal, a Euro cover of G L O R I A Gloria song is playing.  Really odd and slightly surreal as I'm travelling alone for the week until my Gloria meets me in France. The music has been invasive in each place I've been and unsettling for some reason, but I can't seem to find the source of my discomfort. This is the longest trip that we've ever taken--a full month I'll be in Belgium and France, and--today--I feel a bit isolated and overwhelmed.  Dinner and a unique beer find has been a nice respite to re-group from jet lag and a rocky start with the hostel, all of which worked out fine as I found my footing in Belgium for a truly magnificent week.  If I lived in the neighborhood, I would most definitely be happy to be a regular at Le Bier Circus, but don't think it's the destination bar that it sounded like online.

Lambic Discovery Center (Beersel, BE)

My tour guide for the day and new beer friend Werner

7/28/2012

After my tour of Oud Beersel, Werner brought me to the Lambic Discovery Center (local name: Bezoekerscentrum Beersel de Lambiek) and he literally changed shirts to switch jobs from Oud Beersel tour guide to discovery center worker.  It's located outside Brussels in the city of Beersel, the heart of the lambic region.

A theme of the day talking to Werner was that Belgians don't appreciate lambic they way some of us beer geeks might imagine.  Many of us have probably read of the intrusion of macro-lagers into the Belgian beer culture, especially with the young.  So the center is for educating Belgians as much--or more--than foreign tourists.  The local government even supports the center to generate tourism. Very few visitors today, but it's the low season since many Europeans are on holiday elsewhere in late July.  I understand that tours and reservations fill the place other times of the year.

Walking around the spacious center, the life size aging barrels are fun to play in.  Everything is in Dutch but there are English translations, plus the very helpful staff will answer any questions.  I counted ten brewers and blenders of lambic from the local area, each with its own display along the near wall.  Besides the beer samples, the center is a multi-sense experience: smell machine, touch the ingredients, sounds of the brewing process, etc.  Even in a beer centered culture like Belgium, they are working hard to educate.  Evidently, according to Werner, some Belgians past 20-30 km from here don't know lambic beer at all.   

And then, it's to the nicely appointed cafeteria styled tasting room.  Most beers on the list were for three euro. What a price!  First sample is free, which is a rotating draft in a small gueuze glass.  My free sample was Drie Fonteinen. Lambic.  Werner brought out a cheese sampler that was excellent and good to have something to snack on while tasting more local bottles.

Recommended as rare by Werner, I tried De Oude Cam, Oude Geuze, which was highly carbonated with a beautiful fluffy white head of small bubbles.  Hazy orange gold, but was more clear early--I wasn't as careful as I should have been pouring.  Clean, mildly assertive sourness in the nose with some light spice and sweet apple underneath.  Slight sweetness perfectly balances with the sourness, even though the spice of the nose is subdued.  Well worth a try.

An even better bottle was Oude Gueuze Tilquin by Brouwerij Tilquin.  Shimmering orange to gold from the light of the clearing sky from an afternoon rain.  Head dissipates quickly to nothing.  Light sweetness and bready sourness in the nose that's light and follows into the taste.  My tasting notes are thin, but this was my highest rated beer of the stop and I searched out Tilquin later in the trip.

As with all great beer trips, the beer can catch up, especially when I hadn't had anything since my light, hostel breakfast.  Mentioned I was hungry and, because it was not busy, Werner drive me to a local sandwich shop and I ordered a Hollandia:  sliced boiled egg, tomato, cheese, veggies and mayo on crusted bread.  Similar to what I had yesterday across the street from Bosteels, but that one was a bit better though the eccentric owner in Beersel was worth the price of entry alone.  Girardin Kriek 1882 goes with this one well enough; normally, I wouldn't think to have a sandwich with a lambic, but it was originally a working man's beer so it probably makes sense when eating a local.  Werner even mentioned that drinking a refreshing lambic is a great "lawnmower" beer. Like saison, I think we deify these beers too much because of a lack of availability.

The Bezoekerscentrum Beersel de Lambiek is a great experience, especially with the combined tour of Oud Beersel.  Before I found out about the tour, I did some research and it's possible to get to Beersel by train or the De Lijn bus route.  However, there may be some walking or a cab involved.  I didn't test this since I had the convenience of the tour and Werner brought me to the train depot to ride back into Brussels.  Regardless of how a beer geek gets there, the center should be a top priority.  Leave plenty of time.  Had I been able to return, I would have loved to drink deeper into the various local-only offerings.  Such is beer touring, so I won't complain for having a truly amazing start to my week in Brussels.  In the future, I plan to set aside an entire day to return to the center the next time I'm in Belgium.

Brouwerij Oud Beersel (Beersel, BE)

Barrel aging room--my goal for the trip
to be in a dank lambic cellar.  Check.  

7/28/12

I heard about the tour of Oud Beersel and the Bezoekerscentrum Beersel de Lambiek (Lambic Discover Center) from a Belgian Beer blog.  Making the reservation via email, I think the organizer Werner was surprised that an American had heard of the tour.  I love when research pays; too bad I can't share such triumphs with my students.

The tour met on the Rue du Kardinal Mercier, which is a small side street near Centraal Station.  The location has a lot of buses from various tour companies; it was much easier to find that I than I had feared.

Because late July is vacation season for Europeans and they tend to be elsewhere, the tour wasn't big enough for a bus. There were supposed to be a couple of other guys on the tour, but after 10 min of waiting for them in the rain, it was just Werner and I heading to Oud Beersel in his car, for which they only charged me 10 Euro instead of the 21.50 on the flyer.  I was extremely happy that they didn't cancel it all together.  For the second time within a few days, I was getting in a car with a local to drink Belgium beer.

Oud Beersel is open on Saturdays to tour, but mainly to sell beer to the locals for the week.  The picture at left of Framboise also shows the bottle shop.  The brewer/blender Gert was there working and I chatted with him briefly.  My notes say that I had a draft of their Kriek at Town Hall Brewery in Minneapolis in 2006, which Gert assured me isn't possible. The brewery reopened in 2003 after being shut down when the last family brewer Henri stopped production.  Unrelated to Henri, Gert took over the business and it takes three years to have gueuze old enough to blend, so there was no draft when I supposedly tasted it.  Not sure what that entry from Town Hall was then, but now I've had bottles on site to replace it.

Starting up Oud Beersel is reminiscent of the Anchor Brewing story.  Gert and Werner are friends from college and heard the brewery was closing.  They investigated and worked to bring the three generation brewery back to life.  Gert is a brewer, but now the base wort is made at Boon Brewery and he ages and blends Oud Beersel without brewing on site.  Werner volunteers in the shop and at the Lambic Discovery Center, and he organizes the tours for both locations.

A short history of the brewery  in the old brewhouse. 

Werner's tour covered the history of the brewery in depth and because we were chatting one to one, I didn't take notes and fear getting the details wrong.  But, I learned more on this tour than any tour I've been on, covering every detail of the lambic process.  Werner clearly has a passion for lambic beer and this was one of the best beer experiences of my life.  Besides the simple fact of a personal tour, the dedication to the craft comes through in all that they do.

Instead of trying to repeat the information, I'll summarize the philosophy of this 2000 hectoliters/year brewery.  Each lambic brewer/blender is aiming for a particular taste that represents their unique contribution.  Oud Beersel's goal is to blend their beers to have a light sourness accented by a slight hop bitterness compared with other lambics.  While still a quite complex beer, Oud Beersel is more approachable and refreshing compared to a more sour lambic like Cantillion, which I have to admit is too sour for me at times.  I really like the Oud Beersel line up, especially the straight lambic, gueze and kriek.  While the framboise was my least favorite, it was still quite good.  The kriek is much better, in part, because of the high concentration of sour cherries: 400 g/liter.  I've noticed on other kriek bottles that the grams per liter of cherries is listed; one I saw said 125 g/liter, so Oud Beersel is really pushing the fruit on this beer.

What I enjoyed most about the visit was the dusty funk and history of the brewery, especially the barrel room.  The dank, musty cellar exudes bugs to make great bee--exactly the sort of lambic experience I was hoping for.  Later in the week, I'm going to Cantillion and Boon, but happy that Oud Beersel was first on the list.  A special thanks to Werner for making my first trip to a lambic brewery memorable.

Brouwerij Bosteels (Buggenhout, BE)

Fresh Kwak on site.  Simply, wow. 

7/27/12

Got my first lesson on how to ride a train to a small town in Belgium. Since I'm typing on the steps of Brouwerij Bosteels, my train skills seem to be coming along nicely.  Of course, being me and unsure of the route, I'm here several hours early. Oh well.

I had a nice chat with an Italian family trying to see if Bosteels was doing a tour. The younger man with passing English said he found the brewery on Wikipedia. I saw them leave a bit later in a small motorhome and he wished me a nice day on the tour since they weren't waiting for the 1:30 pm time.

My first venture into Flanders feels very comfortable. It looks like Iowa--flat and full of corn and cows--and everyone reminds me of a relative. When I initially located the brewery, I wandered around the courtyard  and a farmer was just leaving with a wagon load of spent grains, I assume for his cows. Otherwise, Buggenhout is a charming small town with only a few businesses near the center and a beautiful old church.

Elke, Sven and family listening to Bosteels owner

Bosteels doesn't do many tours and usually only groups of 15 or more. I was added to a Dutch language tour as the only option, but it should be fine. As long as I see beer stuff and hopefully some samples, it will be success.

As we started the tour, a young women, who I saw arrive with her family out front in a mini-van, offered to translate for me.  I found out later her name is Elke and she has a master's degree in tourism and recently starting blogging about beer as well.  Elke does tours in Belgium, beer related or not as the case warrants.  Based on her recommendations, my wife and I, on a later leg of the trip, spent as much time as we could get in Ghent.  Because our hotel was in Antwerp that night, we only spent the day in Ghent but it was one of our best stops. Ghent is at the top of our list of places to return to in Belgium.

While I didn't catch a lot of the details, I found the small family brewery to be a mix of old and new, a theme that repeated itself on this trip.  The brew kettles showed signs of being repaired and welded many times over the life of the brewery.  However, other sections, like the lab and bottling line, were clearly carved out of newer space in nearby buildings.  The brewery is almost a metaphor for Belgium--an ancient art trying to survive in the modern world.

View of front of Bosteels from sandwich across street

After walking and talking in Dutch, we're in the tasting room, which was specially built in one of the buildings with a wood framed ceiling in a brick building. Then the big surprise. A full draft of Kwak was given to us in its own glass. Very cool. This tour just became worthwhile.

The Kwak is shimmering copper in the glass. Fresh and clean, as expected on site, but the main difference is the increased hop and spice notes in the local version.  Again, not surprising, but very fun to drink in proper form.  And I (and most I've seen in the US) am drinking it wrong. The stand is used as a mug holder and the glass doesn't come out of the stand. FYI.

Bosteels brew house

As most people paired off at the large tables, I wandered over to sit with my new friends that translated for me on the tour.  Elke and I chatted about American beer geeks and beer in general, and then her husband Sven and I talked for a while as well.  Most of her family spoke English to varying degrees, so we traded beery information back and forth across the table over glasses of Triple Karmeliet (best draft of TK ever).  Most of the people on the tour left after their first draft of TK, but we were offered a second while the owner of Bosteels talked with Elke and Sven's family.  Also in Dutch, so I didn't understand enough to write about but the atmosphere was great.

As we started to pack up to leave, Elke and Sven invited me back to their house is Wetteren, which I kindly accepted.  I don't normally go home with friendly people after a beer tour.  And, since I was travelling alone for this part of the trip, my wife had just warned me just the day before at the airport to not be overly trusting.  She knows me--I often make friends while drinking beer.  Bosteels was my first tour in Belgium, so my wife's words were still ringing in the back of my head.  I'm glad that I went along for a wonderful night of Belgian beer, local frites and conversation with new friends.  Truly one of my best beer drinking experiences ever. Thanks Elke, Sven and family.

Delirium Cafe (Brussels, BE)

7/28/12

I finally made it to the actual Delirium Cafe after four attempts. And now I'm a bit disappointed compared to the hype. The beer is served well and I'm enjoying the destination, but it's Saturday night, the music is loud, and the youngsters are starting to tie one on. I sit quietly with ear plugs in to survive. Lots of energy in the place, but not the beer geek mecca of legend. The upstairs Hoppy Loft lives up to that reputation better than the Cafe.

To start, I get a draft of Buffalo Belgian Stout by Br. van den Bosche.  As advertised in the giant book of beer, it's a smooth Belgian interpretation of a stout: dark with a light brown head in a soft, elegant glass, chocolate nose with near black malt, but the Belgian yeast spice clearly influences the final beer to create something that's stout-ish though something else. Nice beer and a great example of how culture and beer can cross to create new tastes.

Sitting at the bar, the range of bottles going out is incredible. All served well, poured and presented with the empty bottle, seemingly whole or decanted by style.  Standard in Belgium, but such knowledge and service is an amazing sight to see and transplanting it to the US would push us to a whole new level of beer consumption.  If only.

Next, I ordered a St. Idesbald Tripel; it's the first beer I've had that's not in it's own glass--just a plain chalice. Guessing it's a small brewery. A light bodied tripel with a serious funk in it--it's adequate.  Looked in the book later and it's Brouwerij Huyghe of Delirium Tremens fame (pronounced her-ga according to Elke and Sven, locals I met earlier on the trip).

For a snack I ordered a Cheese Portion Gouda Jeune. A lot of words for a bowl of gouda cheese chunks that seems to be meant for a group, but I'm happily eating some excellent Dutch kaas that's not changed by American rules. Odd thing, to me anyway, is that it came with a shaker of celery salt, which is surprisingly good sprinkled lightly.

Decided to get off the taps and landed on a bottle of Kasteel Donker; it's an 11%, nearly opaque ale with a light brown head. Heady nose of alcohol, fig and chocolate. The alcohol overpowers the smooth maltiness and dark fruit of the beer. Adequate but not up to other Kasteel brews I've had in the past.

I looked through the entire list and it feels a bit like channel surfing.  200 choices and nothing to drink. Not nothing, but not as much of a selection as imagined.  Delirium Cafe is a very fun stop for a vacation, but if I lived nearby and could delve into the list, I would enjoy it more.  Too my surprise, this visit is increasing my motivation to drink my home state more--appreciate great local beer rather than longing for beer far a field.

I might return to the Hoppy Loft later, but my guess is that this is the end of Delirium Village for me.  Off to find Mannekin Pis to finish of my day.

Delirium Hoppy Loft (Brussels, BE)

7/30/12

Moved upstairs from the noisy Pub to the quiet Hoppy Loft, and quickly I'm drinking a draft of Mikkeller 1000 IBU Light. I've never heard of it, which is happening a lot to me today. A note on BA says it's all the hops and half the alcohol of their 1000 IBU, which explains some of my perceptions further down.  The bartender at the Monasterium told me to drink it because it's supposedly the hoppiest beer in the world.

Drafts at the Hoppy Loft of Delirium Cafe

It does bite a bit, and grows thick like black licorice. Initially, it seems to be no big deal, but then it hits. Body is light but not thin, so the hops float way above the base beer. Perceived hoppiness is high, especially in the taste, but the nose is big but not overwhelming.

I've smelled bigger like Stone Ruination IPA and better. It's a big, hoppy beer but it doesn't meld together beyond good. Worth a try for the novelty; however, I won't be ordering a second glass.

As for the Hoppy Loft itself, it's pretty cool. Wagon wheel tables and a much lighter musical background that's just above the normal voice tone chats going on around me. Crowd up here is older than in the Pub and the atmosphere is more more relaxed.

The purpose of the Hoppy Loft is to showcase American, Danish, Italian and Dutch microbreweries. So while I haven't actually had the Dark Horse, Anchor and Anderson Valley selections listed, those taps are off limits for me. Thought I might delve into the list a bit deeper later in the week.

Star Trek time shift.

So, it's later in the week now and back to the Hoppy Loft to have a brew on the way home to the hostel. While I am loving Belgian beers, I am craving hops.

To feed the beast, I try a I Beat You Double IPA by Mikkeller. Very dark amber and looks heavy for an IPA. Good lacing around a thick, grassy pine resin with spices in the nose. Blistering strong bitterness that lingers like grass clippings over an off putting toffee and caramel for the malt. For me, DIPAs come in two forms: sublime and stupid. This is not sublime. But, if you're looking for an over the top chewing on hops, this is your IPA.

The bartender offered to help me find some Belgian IPAs, which led to a Dutch beer named Ignis & Flammable by Brouwerij de Molen. Not pretty in the glass. Amber to copper ale with a uneven, large bubbled head.  Bottle says it has Galena, Chinook, Simcoe, Cascade and Amarillo hops, and dry hopped with Amarillo. Nose is day old grass clippings, pepper from the 7% ABV and a sweet caramel underneath. Belgian funk from the yeast blends well with the hop. Taste is earthy with a clear hop presence; a subdued grapefruit messes with the whole concoction listed as a Flanders IPA. I could see where some would dismiss the beer, but it really is growing on me.  If there's a path to hops for Belgians, this is it.

Nice night at the Hoppy Loft, which cut such a difference compared to the relative solitude and relaxing atmosphere of Moeder Lambic. Even on a Monday night, the party is in full tilt, though mellow compared to the thumping sounds coming up from the Pub and Cafe downstairs.  While a bit raucous, it's a great place for  a beer that's well served with bartenders that are knowledgeable and, in the Monestarium and Hoppy Loft, helpful.

Delirium Pub (Brussels, BE)

Delirium Pub main bar on main floor that's up and to the right.
DrinkingCaracole Forestinne Mystery

7/26/12

On my way out of the Delirium Monesterium, I saw the sign that said Delirium Village. I found my way back that night to the Delirium Cafe proper--kinda.  I headed upstairs to the larger, seemingly main bar, and later upstairs to the Hoppy Loft. I learned from the bartender in the Hoppy Loft that I still hadn't been in the Delirium Cafe after three attempts. Persistence is key in every pub hunt.

The beer list is daunting--wow. And that's just the draft list. The short list doesn't have the breweries listed, so it was difficult to decide. I haven't felt this confused ordering a beer since the very early days of the beer path. I feel like a newbie.

Order what ever looks interesting at first glance and ask for the book of beers--it's a must!  Each beer on draft has a full page with art, prices, brewery and a description--most of it in English. First beer for me is Brouwerij Caracole, Forestinne Mystery, a hazy old gold ale with an off white head. Sweet spiciness to offset a very strong earthiness that lives up to the forest imagery and elves on the bottle art.

Belgoobeer's Belgoo Arboo

Similar to my first Great American Beer Festival, showing up at Delirium at night puts a hard spin on the place. The myth and the actually don't match.  Yes, they have a lot of great beer and the serve it well, including the glass rinse, full tap pull, Euro head shave with a wet knife and the final water rinse of the stem.  But the party atmosphere is unnerving and not comfortable.

Back bar is industrial and made for pouring a ton a beer without worrying about the mess. Kegs are out in the open and hooked up like a top notch homebrew set up.

When I walked in the bar, the table of young women behind me was singing along at the top of their lungs with Queen's Bohemian Rhapsody. The clientele, tonight anyway, is very much towards the young and loud, but the bar isn't very full on a Thursday night, so not a problem yet.

My second beer is truly a Belgium--looks good and no idea what the style is. I'm going with Belgian IPA as a catch all:  Belgoo Arbo from Brasserie la Binchoise. The Delirium description says "Belgian 4 hops amber tripel beer."  Label art says "Hoppy Amber Beer."  Style doesn't matter in Belgium, or so I've heard.  Belgoo Arbo has heavily earthy hops with no real bite, blended with a light yeast twist underneath. Heavy, dirty white lace over hazy gold to amber ale, depending on the light. Myriad of nut and light fruit flavors underneath. Not a new favorite, but an interesting beer that I can honestly say I've never tasted the likes of before. Which, for me, is the purpose of travel abroad for beer.  As it warms, the flavors blend a bit more.

Delirium Pub, Brussels, Belgium

At 9 pm the sound doubled--the music and the young people yelling to each in conversation. The bartender very nicely let me pay for both beers after the second one, even though they don't run tabs in here. I learned earlier today that there's a 5 Euro minimum to use a card, so I used that to talk the bartender into holding it open for the bald guy typing at the bar.

As I was finishing at the Pub, two guys at the bar asked if I was writing a blog.  Answering yes, he made me promise to say that Pakistani's love beer. He and his friend attended university in England and this is their graduation party. Cheers to the Pakistani beer lovers!

The Pub is worth the effort to visit and a very fun place. The original bar is the downstairs section, which I haven't done.  Tonight, I went directly into the draft only pub. I planned to drink the Cafe next.  But I when walked down the spiral stairs, it was as loud as the pub, so I headed up to the Hoppy Loft and got, understandably, lost there for another draft.

The Cafe will have to wait for another day.

Delirium Monasterium (Brussels, BE)

The "list" for the Delirium bars

7/26/12

On my third beer, I realized with the help of the bartender that I was in a smaller version of Delerium Cafe called the Delirium Monasterium that specializes in Trappist ales and vodkas. Hmmmm. Interesting. The sign out front of the former entrance to the  Delirium Cafe said "around the corner" for the Cafe, but I didn't go far enough.  It's two left hand turns to get to the actual entrance.  After the first left hand turn, I saw Delirium in the name and stopped for a beer before investigating further.

So, this was just some trappist pre-gaming. :)

The Monesterium is a small bar with ten taps by my count that faces directly to the busy seafood restaurant row known as Rue des Bouchers. The dark wood of a beat up bar has a monastery feel with some church like arches filling out the decor. Slow in the early afternoon, which was nice for chatting with the friendly punk bartender.  I noticed during the week of visits to the Delirium bars that the Monestarium is often quieter and less full than the other bars, which is one of the reasons that I took Gloria there instead of the main cafe when we returned to Brussels briefly for the flower carpet.

For my first visit, I stuck to the taps, a treat by itself for traveling to Belgium. Plus the famous list overwhelmed me initially. The Monasterium also doubles as a vodka bar, which doesn't make much sense until I saw the crowds of young folks later in the evening.  I started safe with a La Trappe Quad: one of the very freshest that I've ever had, full of life and body. Nearly as good as having it on site years ago.

Since it counted on the list, I ordered a Chimay Red for the second draft in spite of the bartender's warning: thin on taste and light bodied.  Perfectly adequate, but I wouldn't order it again.  My final draft of this visit was better: Val Dieu Tripel has a thick white head that falls to half in an instant and then lingers with a heavy lace. Shimmering orange beer that's beautiful in the glass. Big spicey nose that lessens on the tongue and is over shadowed a bit (not in a bad way) by the earthy base of the beer.

Overall, a great first stop at Delirium in spite of my confusion as to where I was actually drinking.  I corrected the error several times during the week by visiting each section separately.  Before taking off, I gave the copy of All About Beer magazine that I read on the plane to the bartender, which he seemed to appreciate.  The Monesterim is not the stop I expected but one I very much enjoyed.