Sunday, January 14, 2007

Belgo Centraal (London, UK)

12/30/06

We show up at Belgo Centraal for dinner on a Saturday, which, as tourists, we should have come earlier in the trip, but I got a flu bug on the flight over, so it wasn't until the end of the trip that I was up to multiple beers and a big meal. The line looked long and the bar was packed, but the wait was about half of the 45 min they told us it would be. BC has a sorta industrial chic look, lots of shiny metal and exposed heating ducts upstairs. The whole place, including the one room bathroom with opposing stalls and single hand washing area w/ friendly attendant, felt a bit like a night club, but not everyone was young and under dressed.

At the bar, I ordered a Brugs Tarwebier, a very good wit, and my wife a Huyghe Fruli on tap. Both excellent and well served. Bartender was effusively apologetic for having to change the keg for my beer, but it was worth it. We were just thinking about what to drink next when our names were called for a table.

So, we're told to wander downstairs and immediately we see the open kitchen and monk-dressed waiters and waitresses. Many of the tables are like giant picnic tables with groups set beside each other, though I noticed that a bit of space was left between groups who weren't together. My wife and I sat at a table for two around the outside of the main seating section, which we preferred. Still tight and close, like sitting at most Cheesecake Factories, but there's a much better sense of privacy in spite of being close. In the states I generally hate being that close because it's impossible to sit without hearing conversations and generally invading each other's space, but it wasn't a problem here.

We ordered the Bouchee aux Champignons Sauvage, a puff pastry filled with wild mushrooms and button onions that was covered in an Orval and truffle cream sauce. Very spectacular. A salad was the only other vegetarian option, but when the one option I have is so awesome, who cares. Better than I expected really, since the place specializes in mussels, which a third to half of the tables had at some point. Service was very good in spite of being full, except my Orval was a bit slow in coming when I wanted to drink it with the meal.

For dessert, I had a bottle of Hoegarden Grand Cru, which was a good choice as well. My wife left for the hotel since I was heading to a brewpub across the street, Bunker Bierhall.  I turned to people watch while finishing my beer and it was a wide variety of young and old with a myriad of languages, quiet dates and raucous laughter. Very fun place and well worth the visit. I was informed later by some Brits while sitting at Market Porter that the 12% suggested tip on the Belgo bill is truly optional and need not be paid. Not that it bothered me much to pay it since it was a fine experience. So, five beers and a shared entree was about 30 pounds, so it is a bit pricey. We ate at the local grocery store Marks and Spencer most of the trip, so no worries to splurge for this one.

Belgo Centraal was a wonderful experience and highlight of our trip to London.  I recommend it to anyone heading to England.

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